Knitting with Arne & Carlos on an HX Greenland Cruise
Summary: Reflecting on a knitting expedition to Greenland on the HX MS Fridtjof Nansen, the author explores the intersection of tourism, culture, and politics. Despite international interest and rumors of American political maneuvering, the self-governing territory remains committed to its independence while maintaining its administrative relationship with Denmark.
The 10-day cruise along Greenland’s western coast offered immersive cultural and natural experiences. Stops included Ilulissat, known for its iconic icebergs; Uummannaq, featuring Danish historical artifacts; and Sisimiut, a hub for historical and cultural preservation. The itinerary balanced scientific lectures and wildlife observation with local interactions, such as learning the Greenlandic polka in Qeqertarsuaq and celebrating the summer solstice in Evighedsfjord.
Ultimately, the author characterizes Greenland as a destination that balances modernization with the preservation of its unique heritage. Whether via on-land adventure packages or expedition cruises, the region offers visitors a profound look at Inuit culture and breathtaking Arctic landscapes, welcoming travelers with pride rather than prejudice.
The proverbial time has flown. It’s hard to believe it’s been a year since my journey to Greenland via Iceland in June 2026. But my first sighting of Greenland occurred during a trip to Norway in the summer of 1962.
As a little girl, I was smitten with the glacial ice sheet below: The stark sculptures in nature implied strength and endurance. My fascination with the icy topography never ceased, even during subsequent flyovers.
I vowed that someday I would visit, a dream that came true when I booked a knitting group tour with Arne & Carlos on HX Expeditions. (Arne & Carlos curate small group knitting journeys on land and at sea.)
A Personal Journey to Greenland Amidst Political Angst
My personal journey to Greenland–known as Kalaallit Nunaat in Greenlandic—was not overshadowed by repeated mentions of Greenland in the U.S. media. However, I took special notice of the announcement that United Airlines would offer a seasonal direct flight from Newark to Nuuk, even though my air travel would be indirect because my knitting tour began in Reykjavik.
I am pleased to say that today, despite ongoing mumblings and suspicious visits from U.S. ambassadors and entrepreneurs to rally and entice Greenlanders with promises and money, Kalaallit Nunaat continues its quest for independence while remaining under Denmark’s protection. Thankfully, it still hasn’t been invaded or taken over by the USA.
Greenland’s total population of 57,000 people, of which 22,000 live in its capital, Nuuk, was poised for tourism, not a political takeover. They would agree that ‘Greenland is for Greenlanders’ despite their ongoing relationship with the Kingdom of Denmark since the early days of colonization.
Since 2008, Greenland has been a self-governing overseas administrative division of Denmark. Greenlanders pay 42% in taxes to Denmark and receive the same benefits as Danes, including free healthcare, nine years of compulsory education, as well as opportunities for university education.
HX MS Fridtjof Nansen: Our Greenland Cruise Itinerary
My journey to Greenland was aboard HX MS Fritjof Nansen, a hybrid vessel that meets AECO sustainability standards.
Our cruise began in Nuuk and traveled north towards the Labrador Sea and Davis Strait for 10 days and 9 nights. Along the western coast of Greenland, including Disko Bay, we explored the land of tundra, lichens, wildflowers, and wildlife.
The Gulf Stream keeps the ice pack farther north on the west side, so mid-June marks the start of the cruising season, with the possibility of spotting migrating whales and wandering musk-ox.
Ilullssat
After sailing through the night, our first day in port was in Ilulissat, birthplace of the iceberg, which emanates from the glacier into the ice fjord and ultimately sank the Titanic.
Sights included the visitor center and museum, a private boat tour to be at eye level with all the ice, and watching local fishermen pull in their abundant catch. Ilulissat’s population of 6,000 includes landscape artists, historic and contemporary, who grace the art museum.
Uummannaq
The next day’s journey included a zodiac ride into the town of Uummannaq, whose heart is in its mountain, with fewer than 2,000 inhabitants.
Evidence of Danish settlers was notable in an ornate Lutheran church and in museum exhibits of whaling artifacts, including clothes made from sealskins. Local talent provided Greenlandic drumming and folk tunes. A hike to Santa’s summer home was optional.
Storøen and Salliaruseqqiviut Island
When our boat sailed into ‘uncharted waters,’ there was time to participate in citizen science projects aboard a science boat, take nature walks on Storøen and Salliaruseqqiviut Island, or kayak for passengers who opted for adventure.
A Day at Sea
At sea, there was a good balance of mealtime routines, cultural and science lectures and activities, and, of course, knitting while watching for migrating whales.
Knowing how many layers of clothing to wear—temperatures ranged from the high 20s to the 30s Fahrenheit—and how to get in and out of the muck boots became second nature.
Elaborate smorgasbords for breakfast and lunch, and a choice of entrees for dinner, were replete with local fresh seafood—scallops, King crab, Arctic char, cod—or homegrown lamb, with curated wines and tempting, varied mini gourmet desserts.
We had the opportunity to take more zodiac cruises amid the icebergs and to make an optimal landing to walk on mossy hillsides with Arctic wildflowers and nesting birds. It was a good catch-up day for knitting the hat with its mystery charted pattern, socializing, and lounging in a hot tub.
Qeqertarsuaq
Qeqertarsuaq has a population of less than 1,000. We visited with locals who taught us the Greenlandic polka, a meet-and-greet with a local sled dog proprietor, and time to shop in the town’s all-purpose department store with clothes, household items, food, guns—and, oh happy day, qiviut yarn– the pure musk ox inner yarn, which is softer than cashmere, and a local bargain for $100 for a 2 oz. skein (267 yards).
Sisimiut
Nansen headed south overnight to greet the day in Sisimiut, the protected ice-free harbor in winter, still north of the Arctic Circle.
This town of 6,000 people was the first of the Danish colonies, and all posted signs were in both Greenlandic and Danish. It’s known for its international Arctic Polar Ski Race in the spring, along with a popular Arctic Sounds Music Festival, and the Greenlandic National Kayaking championship races in the summer.
Touring the authentic museum village, with its original buildings, was a throwback to the days of the whaling trade. There was much to do and see in this picture-perfect, historical and seaworthy coastal town, along with a private folk concert staged for the passengers with acoustic guitar and heavenly vocals at the modern Taseralik Culture Center.
Evighedsfjord
At Evighedsfjord, we had an onboard celebration with a visiting Greenlandic family who traveled 2.5 hours by motorboat to bring us traditional cake and local herbal tea for Greenland’s National Day on the summer solstice, celebrated by both the Danes and the Inuit nation, who also have their own day on the winter solstice in December.
More zodiac or kayak cruising among the icebergs—the bluer the ice, the older it is–to the glacier at the foot of this multi-armed fjord in fog and mist.
Returning to Nuuk
An overnight sail brought us back to Nuuk, full circle, where we’d begun the expedition cruise that did not disappoint.
The midnight sun, Arctic birds like black guillemots, sled dogs, mournful Arctic rhythms, and creative cuisine were the backdrop for a culture-rich cruise to see natural beauty and human survival at their best.
Before disembarking and returning on an inaugural flight to Reykjavik with Air Greenland from the new international airport, we toured the city and saw evidence of its modernization, including new housing units under construction.
Tourism in Greenland has also emerged, with on-land packages of adventure and backcountry tours that take rugged individuals into uninhabited areas to experience the nomadic lifestyle of its original inhabitants.
By land or by sea, Greenland is calling, and luckily, it doesn’t show prejudice towards American travelers, whom they welcome with pride.
Nadine Revheim, PhD, a licensed psychologist and writer, who lives in (and loves) the Hudson River Valley. Her memoir, Woven Together: Finding Me in Memories of You, is in press with Cape House Books. Nadine writes Beacon Bits – A Bite of the Hudson River Valley and has been published in The Highlands Current, The Keepthings and The Writing Disorder.
IF YOU GO
- HX Expeditions offers other Greenlandic cruises—sailing from Iceland to the south coast where the Vikings landed, and cruising along the east coast, with its dense ice pack and the national park, offering many opportunities for polar bear sightings.
Note: In September 2023, Hurtigruten Expeditions split into two. As part of the rebrand, HX Expeditions left its parent company and now handles all global polar and remote-region discovery cruises. Hurtigruten operates Norwegian coastal ferries.
- Learn more about Arne & Carlos yarn, journeys and more on their website.
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