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Bologna in Winter? Six reasons we say YES!

February 26, 2018
Palazzo Comunale, Piazza Maggiore, Bologna (Credit: Andrew Levine)

Bologna in winter?

Conventional wisdom holds that the best time to visit northern Italy is in spring or autumn when the weather isn’t either too hot or too cold. We have been to Bologna—the capital of the Emilia Romagna region—many times in shoulder seasons, always enjoying our visits so much that we find another reason to return.

But during our first off-season visit to the city in late February, we discovered there are many reasons to visit Bologna in winter. Not only are there plenty of things to do but there are also distinct advantages to spending a few days or even weeks in Bologna in winter.

1. Walk under the porticoes

The stunning porticoes (portici, in Italian)—totaling some 25 miles in length—are one of the city’s most characteristic and iconic architectural features. In summer, these covered walkways provide protection from the sun and rain but in winter, they’re equally useful: They offer protection from snow and winds.

Portrait of Porticoes by Ivan Dimitrov at Hotel Commerciante, Bologna

Portrait of Porticoes by Ivan Dimitrov at Hotel Commerciante, Bologna

Providing overhead shelter as you walk from place to place, they encourage pedestrians to stop and leisurely glance at the historic buildings or attractive shop displays along their route.

2. Savor comfort foods

Many of the foods for which Bologna is known throughout the world are best enjoyed in winter because they tend to be rich and hearty.

It’s the perfect time and place to enjoy a steaming bowl of tortellini in brodo (tortellini in broth), or a plate of tagliatelle al ragù (ribbons of pasta in meat sauce) or gramigna with salsiccia (curled pasta with sausage). If you like carciofi (artichokes), they are plentiful in winter—served steamed, in salads, or used as stuffing in ravioli.

Gramingna con salsiccia at Giampi e Ciccio, Bologna

Gramigna con salsiccia at Giampi e Ciccio, Bologna

Fresh artichokes at the market, Bologna

Fresh artichokes at the market, Bologna

Porcini mushroom risotto at Trattoria da Nello, Bologna

Porcini mushroom risotto at Trattoria da Nello, Bologna

Compared to summer (especially August), when many Italians take their vacations, restaurants, trattorias, and food stores are all open in winter, welcoming visitors. (Conversely, we’ve found to our dismay that many restaurant owners in southern Italy, especially in beach towns, close up shop during the winter months.)

And in case you have ever tasted the gelato at Cremeria Funivia (one of our favorite warm weather destinations), you’ll be reassured to know that this Bologna institution remains open throughout the year.

3. Take a cooking class

A bastion of good food and culinary traditions, Bologna hosts an array of opportunities for visitors to learn how to cook and acquire new skills to take home. For example, at CIBO (the Culinary Institute of Bologna), food lovers can learn how to make pasta from scratch or whip up a tasty ragù of their own working close to the heat of an oven.

Student at CIBO cooking class accompanies Chef Stefano to the market

Student at CIBO cooking class accompanies Chef Stefano to the market

Through an organization called Le Cesarine, food enthusiasts can arrange an in-home cooking class with a local who opens her home to visitors to share the traditions of his/her forebearers.

4. Step indoors

There are plenty of things to do indoors, too—many of them free. In a region richly laden with history and culture, someone could spend weeks (or many months) to visit all of the 50 museums in the city alone. Two of our favorites are Bologna’s Modern Art Gallery (MAMbo), and the Museum of the History of Bologna.

There are also changing temporary exhibitions at locations across the city. We were fortunate to walk by the territorial office of the government of Bologna, where a free exhibit, “Il Genio Marcono” (the genius Marconi) was running. Through films, photos and displays of artifacts, it tells the history of one of Bologna’s most famous citizens, Guglielmo Marconi, and his seminal role in the development of wireless communication. (With civic pride, Bologna’s airport is named after Marconi.) The exhibit is housed in a Renaissance-style palace whose interior, with Murano glass chandeliers and painted ceilings, was simply dazzling, well worth a visit on its own.

In an underground passageway of the Piazza Re Enzo, we found Bologna Fotografata (Bologna photographed). Through film, photographs and text, this fascinating exhibit captures three centuries of the city and its people, including a look at the devastation wrought by World War II.

Bologna Fotografata entry

Bologna Fotografata (Bologna photographed)

Visitors can also slip into one of the centuries-old churches in the city to immerse themselves in art, architecture and history.

5. Save a buck or two

While Bologna is generally considered to be one of the more economical cities of Italy, rates for lodging are even less from November to March than in they are in peak tourist seasons. In Bologna in winter, many shops are getting ready for their spring lines after the Christmas holidays and thus, offer substantial discounts on winter wear. It’s a great time for shopaholics.

Shop window on Via Farina, Bologna

Shop window on Via Farina, Bologna

Shop window on Via Clavature, Bologna

Shop window on Via Clavature, Bologna

6. Don’t believe us? Well, ask a local

We did. We spoke to many people who reminded us that summers in Bologna can be hot and humid. The site of the oldest university in Europe, Bologna is a “college town” where students comprise approximately one-third of the population. When July comes around, many of these students return home for the season to other parts of Italy and other countries around the globe.

In winter, regardless of the weather, the city is at the peak of its vibrancy. Everybody is here! In early evenings, the streets and outdoor bars are filled with people taking a passeggiata (evening walk) or sipping an aperitivo at an outdoor café. The Piazza Maggiore, the city’s virtual living room, is always filled with life and people taking photographs.

Piazza Maggiore in Bologna

Piazza Maggiore in Bologna

The bottom line

During every season, including winter, visitors to Bologna will experience the special warmth and hospitality of a progressive, liberal city that truly welcomes and captivates the hearts of outsiders.


Piazza Maggiore on a snowy winter evening – February 2018


For more information:


Also see: Summer in Bologna? 17 Ways To Beat The Heat


 

  • Reply
    Sheryl
    February 26, 2018 at 5:56 pm

    I’m convinced… and also hungry! Looks absolutely fabulous no matter what the season.

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      March 4, 2018 at 4:25 am

      Don’t get me started on the wonderful foods of Bologna!

  • Reply
    Doreen Pendgracs
    February 27, 2018 at 5:04 pm

    Lovely post about Bologna in winter. I’m not quite convinced as I’m not a fan of winter at all, but that Porcini mushroom risotto certainly makes it look tempting. 🙂

  • Reply
    Charles McCool
    February 27, 2018 at 5:59 pm

    Bologna had some of the best food I have eaten anywhere. I would love to visit Bologna in the winter, when there are fewer visitors but still the same great food.

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      March 4, 2018 at 4:39 am

      Each time we visit, we are thrilled to explore new-to-us eateries. There are more than 90 in the city!

  • Reply
    Lauren M
    February 27, 2018 at 7:36 pm

    Great idea for a winter vacation. It’s good to think outside of the box! Also, I love the artwork and the photos!

  • Reply
    Marilyn B
    March 1, 2018 at 12:37 pm

    Haven’t been to Bologna, but would love to visit. Have been to Florence in late November, and I agree, there is nothing like visiting Italy in the off-season. I think that either late November or March would be ideal – hopefully avoiding winter storm flight delays in the USA.

    Definitely food for thought – oh, and those photos make me hungry, too!!!

  • Reply
    Carol
    March 1, 2018 at 4:07 pm

    I am not good with cold weather but those porticoes absolutely look stunning and a cooking class would be great. Too bad I missed the Marconi exhibit.

  • Reply
    Marilyn Jones
    March 2, 2018 at 5:22 am

    Off season is a great time to visit a lot of destinations especially when there is so much to do like you have indicated there is in Bologna, Italy! I really enjoyed reading about your adventures!

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      March 4, 2018 at 5:42 am

      Bologna is a fabulous city! Hope you have had or will have the opportunity to visit!

  • Reply
    Cathy Sweeney
    March 3, 2018 at 11:29 pm

    I was so surprised to see the snow that’s been falling throughout Italy. It’s quite a beautiful touch to gorgeous cities like Bologna. Although I’ve been to the Emilia-Romagna region a few times, I’ve only passed through the city of Bologna to catch planes and trains. What a shame! Nice to know that it’s a city for all seasons.

  • Reply
    SandInMySuitcase
    March 4, 2018 at 11:19 am

    With hot and humid summers (and no doubt crowds too), Bologna in winter sounds like a good idea. Plus, all that beautiful pasta probably warms you up in the evenings :-).

  • Reply
    Sue Reddel
    March 4, 2018 at 10:51 pm

    I\’m sold! I\’m also a big fan of traveling when there are fewer crowds. A winter visit sounds perfect to me. Eating luscious Italian food, taking a cooking class and exploring museums would be a wonderful journey.

  • Reply
    jeanne
    January 9, 2019 at 3:12 pm

    I’ve just spent 3 weeks in Italy but missed Bologna. After reading your post, I’m now kicking myself that I didn’t stop there! Next time!

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