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Fire Island: Where Life Slows Down

July 31, 2019
What to do on Fire Island

According to estimates from the National Park Service, about 2.2 million people visit Fire Island, New York each year. The busiest times, of course, are during July and August. We stayed at a rental property with friends for a few days, mid-week in late July. What’s its allure?

Fire Island is a 32-mile-long barrier island located off the southern coast of Long Island in Great South Bay. It is just about 65 miles east of—but a world away from—New York City.

A boardwalk leading to the ocean

A boardwalk leading to the ocean

Getting the lay of the land

Visitors typically arrive by train, bus or car before embarking on the last common path of their journey, the half-hour ferry ride (departing from Bay Shore, Patchogue or Sayville in Suffolk County) to the shores of Fire Island. That ride provides just enough time to begin decompressing from the stresses and pressures of the mainland before reaching a destination where the air seems fresher and the ambiance tends to be friendlier than wherever else you came from. 

The Fire Island Ferry

The Fire Island Ferry

Fire Island is covered with white sandy beaches, grassy dunes, marsh grasses, flowering plants, shrubs and forests. During our stay, purple vitex were in bloom in every direction.

Ubiquitous purple vitex

Ubiquitous purple vitex adds local color

The island plays host to an abundance of wildlife, too, and has the distinction of being the only developed barrier island without roads in the United States. Cars (other than service or emergency vehicles) aren’t permitted, which also slows down the pace.

Grassy Dunes on the ocean side of Fire Island

Dunes on the ocean side of Fire Island

To preserve the natural beauty of the island and protect it from overdevelopment, President Lyndon B. Johnson signed legislation creating the Fire Island National Seashore (FINS) in 1964. In 1980, Congress designated 1,400 acres on a seven-mile stretch of the island, called Smith Point, as a national wilderness area.

Although Fire Island has a reputation as a mecca for gay visitors (two of its hamlets, Cherry Grove and The Pines, are considered among the most welcoming LGBTQ destinations in the U.S.), the demographics of Fire Islanders are actually quite diverse.

Fire Island is a mosaic of 17 different communities, each with its own identity, character and appeal. This offers the possibility of gravitating to a place on the island that feels just right.

Winding down

First-time visitors realize that wherever they stay, they don’t have to worry about what to wear or what to do. Grid-like paths between the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay—and the east and west sides of the island—invite walking or bicycling. Boardwalks lead to the ocean.

The weather beckons visitors to take advantage of the wide beaches and inviting waters. There simply aren’t too many other distractions. Evenings are just as relaxed: dinner in or dinner out, or simply spending time chatting with friends over cocktails on a patio overlooking the bay.

What to do on Fire Island: The view from Matthew's Seafood House on Ocean Beach

The view from Matthew’s Seafood House on Ocean Beach

Sunset on Great South Bay

Sunset on Great South Bay

Perhaps, it’s by design that there simply aren’t too many things to do on Fire Island—except read, think, enjoy nature and refresh. Compared to other destinations, even the TripAdvisor activity listings are sparse, without many “activities” to recommend.

For those who just can’t settle down and need to do something, here are five low-key options:

What to do on Fire Island

1) Visit the Fire Island Lighthouse

What To Do on Fired Island: The Fire Island Lighthouse (Credit: Pixabay)

The Fire Island Lighthouse (Credit: Pixabay)

This might be the highpoint of Fire Island, literally and figuratively. If you climb the 182 steps up the tower, the reward is finding some of the very best views of Great South Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, Long Island, and Fire Island. From atop the historic Fire Island Lighthouse (located on the western side of the island), on a clear day, you might even see the New York City Skyline. Measuring 74 feet in height, it is the tallest lighthouse on all of Long Island. Visitors can also experience two floors of interactive exhibits at the lighthouse keeper’s quarters.

2) Search for elusive beach plums

Locals say that golden beach plums grow wild in bushes along the dunes. The plums are only ripe for a week or so and you’ll need a local to tell you where to find them. Adding to the challenge: They are likely to be consumed very quickly by the island’s white-tailed deer population (estimated to number 400), which almost equals the number of all-year human residents on the island.

3) Take a lateral ferry around the perimeter of the island

In addition to the cross-bay arrival ferries, the Fire Island Water Taxi is a lateral ferry that travels between the east and west sides of the island during peak season, making stops at different communities.

4) Explore the wilderness

Wilderness Visitors Center

Wilderness Visitors Center (Credit: FNIS)

The FINS operates a Wilderness Visitor Center on the east end of the island with ranger-guided programs and events. For example, one program allows participants to head out after dark to look for signs of nocturnal wildlife on the beach and dunes.

5) Tour the Sunken Forest

Under the canopy of the Sunken Forest

Under the canopy of the Sunken Forest (Credit: National Park Service)

The Sunken Forest is a “globally rare” holly maritime forest, just east of Point of Woods, that is dominated by hollies that are said to be more than 300 years old. Visitors can walk along on a 1.5-mile boardwalk trail through the guided forest or take a guided ecology tour that starts at the Sailors Haven Visitor Center.

As wonderful as Fire Island is in summer, many say the best time to visit and make memories is off-season, after Labor Day. That’s when the weather is crisp and average highs of 77° and lows of 60° make for warm days and cool nights with less humidity.

You’ll find more solitude with fewer visitors and you may even snag a bargain on accommodation rentals.


All photo credits (unless otherwise noted): Jerome Levine


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  • Reply
    Cathy Sweeney
    July 31, 2019 at 2:26 pm

    Ha! Love that sign on Ocean Beach. I’ve never been to Fire Island and had really only heard of it in relation to its LGBTQ friendliness. The “slow down” philosophy of the island reminds me of Molokai where there’s not a whole lot to do — intentionally! Definitely worth a visit, it seems.

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      July 31, 2019 at 2:30 pm

      It’s particularly challenging for a travel writer to find so little to do. What an unexpected pleasure!:-)

  • Reply
    Sheryl
    August 1, 2019 at 8:21 am

    I love Fire Island and miss it so! Must go back soon. Your photos are drawing me back….beautiful!

  • Reply
    Kemkem
    August 2, 2019 at 2:54 pm

    Nice! As soon as l saw Fire Island, my first thought Gay Mecca as my friends would go yearly from Boston. I had no idea there were so many hamlets too. Haha! Loved that sign, and what a perfect place to chill. I would read all day :-).

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      August 4, 2019 at 11:13 am

      I loved that sign, too! They call Ocean Beach “The Land of No” because of all the rules. Many of them, of course, are broken! 🙂

  • Reply
    Carole Terwilliger Meyers
    August 3, 2019 at 8:11 pm

    Fire Island has been on my to-do list for a long time. I enjoyed getting a flavor of it in this posting. I had no idea it is a car-less island. That makes me want to visit even more!

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      August 4, 2019 at 11:13 am

      No cars = hard to get to but better when you get there!

  • Reply
    Jeff Bryant
    August 4, 2019 at 10:36 am

    We have to admit that Fire Island is completely new to us. It looks like such a quaint place to visit. What a nice way to unwind and unplug.

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      August 4, 2019 at 11:14 am

      I’m not surprised. It’s new to many New Yorkers, too!

  • Reply
    Patti Morrow
    August 4, 2019 at 8:05 pm

    I’ve never been to Fire Island. It looks so pretty and quintessential Northeast! I’ll make a point to stop on my next road trip to that area.

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      August 5, 2019 at 9:24 am

      If you do, I would suggest at last an overnight to get used to the flow…

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