Market Visit: Piazza del Popolo Market in Orvieto, Italy

Heading to the market in Orvieto? First, you have to get there

In some respects, reaching Orvieto (located in the southern part of the region of Umbria, Italy) is much like visiting an island because it takes some effort to get there. The medieval walled city sits on a high plateau of volcanic ash stone (Tufa) about 1000 feet above the valley.

First glimpse of Orvieto from outside the city — Our f’irst glimpse of Orvieto from outside the city

Although you can drive up hairpin-curved roads leading to the town, the chances of finding a parking spot are iffy and all the discoveries seem to be in pedestrian-only squares and alleys. As a result, many tourists leave their cars in the public lot below and ascend a series of underground ramps, steps and escalators by foot (taking approximately 10 minutes) to reach the top.

In addition to being able to see all the town’s architectural, art and crafts treasures, one of the rewards of emerging from underground on a Thursday or Saturday morning is being able to visit the bustling outdoor market held in the Piazza del Popolo.

Set on cobblestone streets, the square is anchored by the Palazzo de Popolo (The People’s Palace), a Romanesque-Gothic palace that now serves as a conference center.

What you’ll find at the market in Orvieto?

On market days, the square and surrounding streets are filled with haphazardly arranged trucks and stands as shoppers weave their way around them. Many cooking classes for tourists also begin here with students shopping with their chefs.

Early morning shoppers begin arriving at the market in Orvieto

The market is a destination for young and older townspeople. — The market is a destination for both young and older townspeople.

The mix of finds at the market in Orvieto

This centuries-old market offers a mix of food, vestiti (clothes) and home goods.

One of the tables with inexpensive clothes

The region of Umbria has been dubbed the “green heart” of Italy because it is so rich in wine and agriculture; farmers and artisanal producers from the surrounding countryside arrive at the market in Orvieto early in the morning to sell their products. They close up just in time for the lunch hour.

Like many in Italy, the market in Orvieto is far less manicured (and costly) than those in France.

Squash blossoms (great for stuffing with ricotta) — Squash blossoms (great for stuffing with ricotta cheese)

Umbrian cooking is characterized as being simple in recipes and technique but made with outstanding ingredients. Walking through the market with all the local, seasonal food products, we only regretted that our hotel room didn’t have a kitchen.

The main event

If we had to name the one standout of this colorful market, it would have to be the truck just inside one of the alleys leading to the square that sells porchetta. Often sold in roadside stands throughout Italy, porchetta is a boneless, moist pork roast stuffed with herbs and traditionally cooked over wood.

The porchetta truck before the lines form — Porchetta truck before the lines form

The meat is usually eaten as part of a warm sandwich (panino) with a crisp piece of fatty skin adding to the savory taste. Every time we see one of the white porchetta trucks on the road, my husband lusts over this dish that is so popular with working men across the country. Because it was too early for lunch, we ordered two panini wrapped to take home to our hotel.