Collavini Wines: The Dachshund Wines of Friuli
The Collavini family’s rich history and tradition of winemaking, as well as their dedication to the craft, have helped put the wines of the Collio and Colli Oriental DOC appellations in Friuli Venezia Giulia on the global map.
This wine region is in the northeast corner of Italy. Bordering Slovenia and Austria, it sits close to the Adriatic Sea to the south and Veneto (known for its Prosecco) to its west. Many shorten the name Friuli Venezia Giulia, calling it Friuli because it is easier to say (and remember). Trieste is the region’s capital and principal city.
Although it is a relatively small region (the fifth smallest in Italy), Friuli is especially known for its exceptional white wines. Not as heavily visited as many other regions in Italy, it is growing more popular with wine tourists because it offers a unique blend of scenic beauty and high-quality wines.
The Reinvention of Collavini Wines
The privately-owned Collavini Winery is over 120 years old. In 1896, the family patriarch Eugenio owned a podere (small farm) and supplied a few hundred liters of wine to wealthy families and stores in Udine, near the Slovenian border.
Eugenio’s son, Giovanni, and then his son, Manlio, took over the business in successive generations. Manlio made significant contributions to the Italian wine industry by applying the modern science of enology to wine cultivation.
- Notably, in 1971, he created Il Grigio Sparkling, the first sparkling white wine in Friuli. Made from a blend of Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay grapes using the Martinotti-Charmat method, it is now one of Italy’s most popular wine exports.
- Additionally, Manlio introduced another sparkling wine, Ribolla Gialla, with a new method that came to be called the Collavini Method, further diversifying the region’s wine offerings.
- Manlio was also an adept businessman. He acquired the company’s headquarters at Villa Zucco-Cuccagna, a fortified, 16th-century manor house in the very favorable hilly terroir of Corno di Rosazzo.
- He broke from conventional practice again by bottling Pinot Grigio in transparent Bordeaux bottles, showcasing its pale, bright color and adding a touch of elegance to its presentation.
- He developed an international market for his wines by selling them to Friulian people who had emigrated to countries like Argentina and Canada to better themselves economically.
A Virtual Tasting of Collavini Wines
The fourth generation of the Collavini family, Giovanni, Luigi, and Eugenio, now work closely with their father, Manlio (dubbed The Lord of Ribolla Gialla). Based on their diverse interests, the division of labor was easy. Giovanni is the winemaker, Eugenio is the accountant, and Luigi, who is fond of travel, does marketing and sales.
We were privileged to be invited to a virtual tasting of Collavini wine with Luigi Collavini. It was easy to see how his knowledge, passion, and sense of humor made him a perfect ambassador for the region and its wines.
He explained that the vineyard includes 170 hectares and produces about 1.5 million bottles yearly, including whites, reds, and sparkling wines representative of Friuli, its hills, and the Collavini style. Giovanni and Luigi made their mark by introducing new presses and equipment.
Fifty percent of the company’s wines are exported to over 50 countries. Its international presence and name recognition still benefit from the Argentinian and Canadian connections established by his father long ago.
“We are proud of producing clean, modern wines while retaining the traditions and grape varieties native to the region,” says Luigi.
The Collavini vineyards are less than an hour from the sea and close to the steep hills of the Slovenian border. “The cool Bora wind brings freshness and higher acidity into the grapes, while day-to-night temperature variations determine complex and intense aromas.”
The Collavini Friulian Wine Tasting
We tasted six different Collavini wines:
Il Grigio Spumante (no vintage)
When introduced 52 years ago, dry sparkling wine was only consumed at Christmas. Along with a beautifully wrapped panettone, it made the perfect holiday gift.
Made from Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio grapes, Il Grigio is pale straw in color with greenish highlights and finer, more delicate, longer-lasting bubbles than Prosecco.
Pairing: It’s a good choice with finger foods and as an aperitif like a Kir Royale or Rossini, and it also goes well with fish or cold cuts.
Pinot Grigio Villa Canlungo DOC Collio 2023
Produced in the Collio appellation in Friuli, this white wine offers minerality and salinity derived from the Ponca soil, made of clay and sandstone from a once-underwater seabed.
After Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio is one of the most popular wines in the U.S. because of its versatility, drinkability, and affordability. “The grapes’ deep roots add to the richness of the wine,” says Luigi.
Pairing: It pairs well with fish, pasta, rice, and vegetable soups.
T-Friulano DOC Collio 2023
Perhaps most characteristic of the area, this territorial wine is the Pinot Grigio of Friuli.
“If you close your eyes, it tells about the territory,” said Luigi. “It is a wine for us,” he adds.
The wine is herbaceous, with notes of hay and white flowers and a bitter almond aftertaste. Although it is in the Sauvignon family, it is not as aromatic.
Pairing: Great with fish, spring soups, pasta, and rice.
Broy DOC Collio 2020
It is a blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon grapes. Indigenous Friulian grapes give the wine its structure.
In 2008, Collavini discontinued using barrels to make it purer but reintroduced oak barrels from Beaune a decade later to add to its richness and make the wine more opulent.
Luigi says he considers this wine a “postcard from Friuli.”
Pairing: Fish, risotto and moderately matured cheeses.
Refosco Pucino DOC Friuli 2022
This rustic, herbaceous red wine of the region made with Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso grapes was typically enjoyed at home in wintertime. It has an intense ruby color with notes of raspberry, tobacco, and licorice. Slightly chilled in summer, it is soft, pleasant, and fruity.
Pairing: It is excellent with fish dishes as well as meat.
Schioppettino Turian DOC Friuli Colli Orientali 2021
Also a deep ruby color tinged with purple, Schioppettino (Ribolla Nera) grapes are grown in the cooler areas of Friuli. The rich, fresh wine has notes of forest fruits, raspberries, black pepper, and spices.
Luigi explained that the word schioppettino comes from the Italian scoppiettare (crackle or pop) because the grapes make small explosions when pressed.
Pairing: Feathered game and pastas with heavier sauces or gnocchi.
Hospitality At Collavino Winery
Visitors to the winery are welcome at the rustic-style Osteria della Ribolla (founded in 2006), which is set up in rooms once used to press grapes. Here, they can sample Collavini wines paired with the traditional Friulian fare of Habsburg and Slovenian origins, a departure from typical Italian food.
The eatery is located in the cellars of the ancient manor house. Manager Alberto Ticozzi welcomes guests with a classic tajut (glass of wine) before introducing the seasonal menu.
Beyond the winery, visitors will appreciate the Collio area’s natural beauty. For example, the charming town of Cividale del Friuli is only 20 minutes away. The 1000-year-old Abbley of Rosazzo, where Benedictine monks cultivated Ribolla Gialla grapes, offers panoramic views of the little villages dotting the surrounding countryside.
The Story Behind Collavini’s Whimsical Dachshund Label
Collavini wines are immediately identifiable by their distinctive labels featuring a playful dachshund. This logo is a tribute to Manlio Collavini’s beloved first dachshund, Ribolla. After the dog’s passing, Collavini dedicated this symbol of affection to honor his cherished companion.
Collavini wines embody the essence of Friuli, reflecting the region’s landscape, traditions, and innovative spirit.
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