The Wicker Wonders of Funchal, Madeira: Sliding Through Paradise
Contributors Chris and Joe Scott share the story of their Monte Toboggan adventure in Funchal, Madeira. They say that this experience in Portugal’s archipelago is one not to be missed.
After multiple attempts to reach this emerald gem in the middle of the Atlantic, we have finally arrived! Disembarking from a transatlantic cruise on the MSC Grandiosa, the sight of Funchal rising like an amphitheater from the sapphire sea is enough to take your breath away.
This isn’t just another port of call; it is a destination that feels both ancient and eternally in bloom. For us, finally making it to Madeira was a milestone—a sensory overload of floral colors, rich wine, and pure adrenaline.
The story of Madeira begins in 1419, when Portuguese explorers were blown off course by a storm and found shelter on the neighboring island of Porto Santo. A year later, they stepped onto the larger, densely forested island nearby and named it Madeira (the Portuguese word for “wood”).
Monte Toboggan: #1 Tourist Attraction in Funchal
Funchal, the capital of Madeira, takes its name from funcho (fennel), which was found growing in abundance on its shores. Over the centuries, the island transformed from a rugged wilderness into a vital trading hub for sugar and, eventually, world-famous Madeira wine.
Today, its “eternal spring” climate makes it a bucket-list destination for travelers seeking lush botanical gardens, dramatic cliffs, and a touch of old-world European charm.
The one thing you simply must do in Funchal—whether you are here for a few days or just a few hours on a cruise excursion—is experience the Monte Toboggan ride. Known locally as Carros de Cesto, this is widely considered the island’s number one tourist attraction, and for good reason.
Dating back to the mid-1850s, these wicker sleds weren’t originally built for tourists. They were a practical, gravity-powered solution for residents of the village of Monte, high above Funchal, who needed a swift “downhill taxi” to reach the harbor. What started as a commute has evolved into a world-famous adventure that feels like drifting in a picnic basket.
Placing Our Life In the Hands of the Carreiros
Imagine being perched at the edge of a steep volcanic hillside, nestled in what looks like a charmingly oversized laundry basket, only to realize your safety rests entirely on the shoulders of two men wearing straw boater hats and specialized rubber-soled boots.
We were seated in a handcrafted wicker basket mounted on wooden runners, greased with tallow (mutton fat) to ensure it glides over the asphalt with heart-stopping agility. Two Carreiros (sled drivers), dressed in traditional white linen uniforms, stand on the rear runners.
They use their heavy boots as human brake pads, steering you through winding public roads at speeds that can hit a thrilling 30 to 48 km/h (19 to 30 mph). It is a 2-kilometer (1.2-mile) descent that leaves you laughing breathlessly as you zoom past lush gardens and local traffic with the sparkling Atlantic shimmering in the distance.
If YOU GO
Reaching the Summit
Getting to the starting line is half the adventure. From the Funchal waterfront near the cruise terminal, most travelers catch the Funchal-Monte Cable Car for a stunning 15-minute sweep over the emerald valley. Alternatively, you can hop on a local bus (#20 or #21) to travel like a resident.
It’s the ultimate “Only in Madeira” experience—a pulse-pounding blend of high-speed street racing and old-world charm. If you find yourself in this corner of the Atlantic, don’t just stay on the ship—grab a wicker seat and slide your way through history.
Getting Tickets
Once you reach the summit near the iconic Nossa Senhora do Monte Church, there’s no need to book months in advance; you simply buy your tickets on the spot.
- Cable Car: Approximately €12.50 one-way or €18.00 round trip.
- Toboggan Ride: A solo run costs about €27.50, while a pair can share the thrill for €35.00.
Tips for Adventurers
- Keep an eye on the harbor. If a massive ship like Grandiosa has just docked, wait times can swell to an hour or two. On quieter days, you can often hop right in for an immediate descent!
- The journey wraps up at Livramento, the pretty village with the Nossa Senhora do Monte Church. While you’ll still have a bit of a walk or a quick taxi ride to get back to the city center, the adrenaline buzz will carry you the rest of the way.
This was the Scott’s, serial cruisers and Century Club members, visit to their 168th country.
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