Visiting Majani: The Laboratory of Sweet Things

This post was originally published in 2014; it has been revised and updated to reflect the passing of Anna Majani.

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No culinary visit to Bologna would be complete without a visit to Majani, the maker of Italy’s first solid chocolate

There are many old shops with appealing window displays in the historic district of Bologna that beg passersby to step inside.

While the city is better known for its artisanal traditions of mortadella and salumi; ragu sauces, and sfoglia (handmade egg pasta twisted into wonderful shapes), another not-to-be missed culinary shrine for visitors is Casa Majani 1796.

Steeped in history, the confectionary shop’s elegant window displays, Belle Epoque furnishings, and artistic packaging are only overshadowed by the taste of its gourmet chocolates, known throughout the world.

Majani: A more than two-century history

The family business began in 1796 in a small workshop, set up by Teresa Majani, which produced high quality chocolates in the shadow of the Basilica San Petronio, the main church of Bologna.

Originally called The Laboratory of Sweet Things (il Laboratorio delle Cose Dolci), the business was so successful that in 1830, the family purchased a larger space at numbers 5 and 7 Via de’ Carbonesi (its present location), which later became known by locals as Palazzo Majani. The family lived upstairs above the first floor workshop, store and tearoom.

Surprisingly (to me), until the end of the 1700s, the aristocracy and clergy only consumed chocolate in a liquid form.

In 1832, the Majani workshop in Bologna became the birthing place for the first piece of solid chocolate in Italy. It was called Scorza (bark, in English) because it looked like the bark of a tree.

Until 1871, Italy was still divided into different states so Guiseppe Majani needed a passport (issued by the Papal State) to travel to Turin in 1856 to purchase the latest steam-driven technology for making chocolate for the aristocracy. Just imagine: He made that trip before the invention of the refrigerator and the automobile.

From there, you might just say that the business took off, becoming a favorite for the city’s social and intellectual aristocracy, earning accolades and medals at exhibitions throughout Europe long before the democratization of chocolate occurred as we know it (Think: Hershey’s and Mars).

A turning point for the growth of the company took place in 1911, when it won a competition to create a chocolate, their signature Cremino Fiat, to celebrate the launch of the first FIAT car, the Fiat Tipo 4. Aldo Majani added a fourth layer of chocolate to the popular cremino chocolate cube, a favorite with many chocolate lovers.

The winning chocolate—made of layers of hazelnut and almond paste alternating with sweet gianduja chocolate—was wrapped in foil and then covered with white paper imprinted with the gold and black FIAT logo. It is still sold in the store today and all over Italy.

Unfortunately, like many businesses in Europe, Majani suffered through tough times during World War II, when the family lost its majority share of the company. But in 1985, Francesco Mezzadri Majani and his mother Anna recaptured ownership and were able to reestablish the family business.

The legacy of Anna Majani, the Queen of Chocolate

Anna Majani, who had worked in the family business from the time she was a teen, became known as the “Queen of Chocolate.” In addition to serving as vice-president of the company, she was also a beloved patron of the arts who welcomed artists from film and theater to her home close to the center of the city. A member of the board of directors of the Teatro Comunale, she was an active supporter of Casa Lyda Borelli, a retirement home dedicated to Italian actors, directors, musicians, stage technicians and other dramatic artists. 

Sadly, in March 2021, Anna died of complications from COVID, at the age of 85. “Entrepreneur and woman of culture who has given so much to our city, her commitment and work have helped to raise the reputation of Bologna and Italy in the world,” said Virginio Merola, mayor of Bologna when he commented on her passing (see link to her obituary below).

The Majani company is still led by Francesco Mezzadri Majani, Anna’s son, marking the seventh generation of the family-owned business.

Majani specialties

With its plant located in Crespellano, just outside Bologna, Majani is one of the few chocolate makers that still starts the process of chocolate-making with raw cocoa seeds imported from Central America. This lengthy and intricate procedure used  is costly but creates results that are especially pleasing to the palate.

Inside the downtown shop, visitors can arrange for a chocolate tasting of several Majani chocolates (as I recall, it cost about 3 euros per person), including the FIAT, scorza, and tortellino (singular for toretellini), and orange peel dipped in chocolate.

Truly fresh chocolate is seasonal so the company closes down production between June and September. In the fall, visitors at the store can purchase the traditional marron glacés, glazed candied chestnuts.

Majani chocolates are now distributed in 28 countries around the world. Once you take a bit and visit the shop, you’ll want to return,

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READ MORE

*Read Anna Majani’s obituary in the New York Times that offers some colorful details about her life and work.

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IF YOU GO 

Majani 1796, Via De’ Carbonesi 5, 40123 Bologna

*We first visited Majani on a Discover the Flavors of Emilia walking tour offered by Bologna Welcome (official tourism site) and have returned each time we’ve stayed in Bologna.

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For additional information: Emilia Romagna Tourism (official tourism information site)

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Other posts about Bologna and Emilia Romagna on More Time To Travel: 

• Eating pizza in Bologna
• Visiting the oldest bakery in Bologna
• Italian pasta etiquette: What you need to know
• Celebrating mortadella in Bologna
• Salame Rosa: Mortadella’s cousin
• CSI Bologna: The pickpocket
• Celebrating World Pasta Day
• A day in Bologna
• The warm hands that make pasta in Bologna
• A road trip on the Via Emilia
• Brisighella: Forget the spa and start pumping…olive oil
• Casa Artusi: A living museum of Italian home cooking
• The Malatestiana Library in Cesena
• Sant’Agata Feltria: On the trail of the white truffle festival