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A Rock Star Italian Chef’s World Tour

November 18, 2018
Photo of portrait of Gualtiero Marchesi Spaghetti salad with caviar and chives

Most of us associate world tours with rock stars.

But once chefs began to come out of the kitchen, they began to achieve the same type of celebrity. Many credit French chef Paul Bocuse, the father of nouvelle cuisine, as being among the first to spend considerable time in “the front of the house” (as opposed to the kitchen), mingling with diners and creating a powerful public presence and brand.

With the growth of mass media and technology, great chefs came to be showcased in books, on television, and in movies, many reaching the status of being revered by the public—from Julia Childs to Jacques Pepin and Anthony Bourdain, to name a few. Now globally, entire TV networks pay homage to chefs, their techniques and recipes. In the age of the Internet, Pinterest and Instagram, a simple search with a chef’s name can retrieve tens of thousands of photos of their respective dishes.

Gualtiero Marchesi Spaghetti salad with caviar and chives

Gualtiero Marchesi Spaghetti salad with caviar and chives (dish prepared at the tasting)

Gualtiero Marchesi World Tour: A remembrance

So it shouldn’t be surprising that there might be a World Tour celebrating a chef who has had an extraordinary influence not just on his own national cuisine but also internationally, which continues even beyond his death.

The Gualtiero Marchesi & La Cucina Italiana World Tour (2018-2019) recognizes the contributions of a legendary northern Italian chef who is credited with introducing modern cuisine in Italy and raising the bar of Italian cuisine abroad.

The tour began in Chicago on November 12th, 2018 and arrived at the Italian Cultural Institute in New York on November 16th. Before the tour winds up in Milan in March 2019, where Marchesi was born and first became interested in gastronomy, it will make stops in Hong Kong, Beijing, Tokyo, Paris, London, Berlin and Moscow.

Portrait of Maestro Gualtiero Marchesi

Portrait of Maestro Gualtiero Marchesi

MoreTimeToTravel attended the New York segment of the tour (which happened to coincide with the third annual week of Italian Food in the World). The program included a showing of the powerful documentary, The Great Italian, which chronicles Chef Marchesi’s life and achievements. The film, which premiered at the Cannes Film Festival, was followed by commentary by Minister Francesco Genuardi, the Consul General of Italy in New York; Simone Marchesi Dandolo, Marchesi’s daughter; Enrico Dandolo, CEO of the Foundazione Gulatiero Marchesi; and representatives of the Italian National Tourist Board.

Chef Pietro Leemann and Fundazione CEO Enrico Dandolo

Chef Pietro Leemann and Fundazione CEO Enrico Dandolo

At each stop along the tour, there is also a presentation by one of the great chef’s disciples. In New York, we heard from Pietro Leemann, a Swiss-born chef who owns the restaurant, Joia (a highly acclaimed vegetarian restaurant in Milan and the first vegetarian restaurant in Europe to garner a Michelin star).

The evening ended with a tasting at the Italian consulate next door, located in an impressive townhouse on Park Avenue that is landmarked as the Henry P. Davidson House. The small plate tasting, paired with Italian wines, was curated by Chef Leemann and others, to reflect some of Chef Marchesi’s most iconic dishes.

Tomato, mozzarella and light pesto

Tomato, mozzarella and light pesto

Call him Maestro

Gualtiero Marchesi died earlier this year at the age of 87. His obituary in the New York Times notes that he was the first Italian chef to earn three Michelin stars (in a system that was always said to be partial to French cuisine) and is known as the father of modern Italian cuisine.

Chef Marchesi has had such a profound influence in training and in inspiring a generation of Italian chefs that he is also known as the “Chef of Chefs.” The article notes that when Chef Marchesi received his third Michelin star in1985, he said the recognition not only accrued to him “but also to the renaissance of Italian cooking that has been in progress for the last 10 years.”

No stranger to controversy, Chef Marchesi also made headlines worldwide when he repudiated the Michelin rating system and also when he created two special types of hamburgers and a dessert for the McDonald’s restaurants in Italy.

Coming from a lineage of artists and musicians, the film portrays Marchesi as an artist as much as a chef. Each of his dishes is beautifully presented, a work of art that tells a story. His daughter said that he didn’t even like the term “chef” and saw himself, instead, as an intellectual and man of the arts expressing himself through food.

Speaking to some Italian attendees over cocktails, we learned that most cooking in Italy before Marchesi was exclusively regional, comprised predominantly of imprecise recipes handed down from generation to generation.

A few important notes about Chef Marchesi’s life’s work:

  • His cooking relied on fresh, regional ingredients. He believed that each ingredient in a dish should be natural, simple and pure, and presented in a recognizable way.
  • Drawing upon his many years in France where he learned about classic cooking, he returned to Italy and raised the bar in terms of culinary techniques and presentation.
  • As an exacting mentor of chefs, he wanted to not only train his chefs to cook but also to think and innovate.
  • He was committed to the idea that food needs to be a representation of both a person (the cook) as well as of a place.
  • One of the chef’s signature dishes, Riso, Oro e Zafferano (Risotto Milanese, made with saffron and topped with gold leaf) is emblematic of the way he “showed off” the best ingredients and made them into an art form.
Rice, gold and saffron (Credit: Fondazione Gualtiero Marchesi)

Rice, gold and saffron (Credit: Fondazione Gualtiero Marchesi)

Chef Marchesi was the Dean and a founding force behind the 2004 establishment of ALMA, the International School of Italian Cuisine (based in Parma, Emilia Romagna), which continues to train chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers and food and beverage managers from around the world.

Chefs preparing Marsala Sabayon cold with fried rice noodles (dessert)

Chefs preparing Marsala Sabayon cold with fried rice noodles (dessert)

Towards the end of his book, The Marchesi Code, published in 2006) Marchesi writes, “As I never tire of repeating to my chefs, cuisine is culture, and we must not forget this.”

Marchesi’s words were echoed in comments made by Caterina Orlando of the Italian National Tourist Board, who noted that food and wine are the primary reasons why tourists visit Italy—stressing their significance in helping visitors “taste” and understand the culture that is uniquely Italian.


All photo credits unless otherwise noted: Jerome Levine


 

  • Reply
    Elaine Masters
    November 19, 2018 at 4:33 pm

    As a San Diego foodie with ties to the local fishing industry I know how important ‘place’ can be for an innovative and courageous chef. Yet, I haven’t spent enough time in Italy to know of the Maestro Marchesi. Thank you for remedying that. A beautiful post and you have me salivating!

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      November 19, 2018 at 5:25 pm

      I have spent time in Italy (although never enough) and didn’t know about this prominent Italian chef before this. Now I’m eager to dine at a restaurant overseen by one of his students!

  • Reply
    Doreen Pendgracs
    November 19, 2018 at 5:54 pm

    Interesting post about Chef Marchesi. I have never heard of him either, although I do love Italy and Italian food. It is unquestionably one of my favourites.

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      November 20, 2018 at 11:43 am

      You’re in good company. Italian food is a favorite around the world!

  • Reply
    Michele
    November 19, 2018 at 6:53 pm

    What a fascinating post! We’re celebrating Italian Food in the World in Toronto right now and I sure wish the Chef Marchesi World Tour would have been included Toronto on their route!

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      November 20, 2018 at 11:46 am

      The Great Italian Chef is a terrific film…you might be able to see if it is on Netflix.

  • Reply
    Lois Alter Mark
    November 19, 2018 at 11:08 pm

    I absolutely love the opportunity to learn more about a chef before eating their food so an event like this would be a total dream! So glad you were able to honor such an influential chef such as Marchesi and hear from his disciples.

  • Reply
    Suzanne Fluhr
    November 20, 2018 at 1:59 am

    I’ve never heard of a chef touring multiple cities—like a rock band, before. I obviously need to expand my gastronomic horizons. Jerome’s food photos are definitely of “you are there” quality. I could almost taste that risotto. Do you eat the gold leaf?

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      November 20, 2018 at 11:47 am

      Yes, everything was edible (and eaten) except for the plate!

  • Reply
    Debbra Dunning Brouillette
    November 21, 2018 at 9:17 pm

    I’d love to have tasted that risotto! I haven’t yet made it to Italy…too busy going to islands (!) but I hope to make it there eventually. In the meantime, great Italian restaurants will have to do! Interesting post!

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      November 23, 2018 at 9:40 am

      There are countless reasons why you should make time for Italy, Debbra!

  • Reply
    Jackie Smith
    November 23, 2018 at 12:39 am

    A most interesting post, Irene. And another one that leaves my mouth-watering. . .may be time to think about a jaunt to Italy!

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      November 23, 2018 at 9:39 am

      For culinary pleasures/treasures, I can think of no better place in the world than Italy!

  • Reply
    Sue Reddel
    November 25, 2018 at 3:02 pm

    We were so sad to miss this event in Chicago because we were traveling. Sounds like one that would have been right up our alley. Thanks for letting us experience it through you. It looks marvelous.

    • Irene S. Levine
      Reply
      Irene S. Levine
      November 26, 2018 at 9:28 am

      Hope you (and I) get to taste his cooking at one of his disciple’s restaurants in Italy!

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